LAND ROVER SERIES II 88"  --  ASSEMBLY


  1. cowl (hood/grille with small Land rover oval/headlights/fenders)
  2.  chassis (includes shifter)
  3.  left side panel (detailed doors, tailights, blinkers)
  4. bench seat (3 seat unit)
  5. 2x rear bench
  6. right side panel (detailed doors, gas filler, tailights, blinkers)
  7. tailgate
  8. 2x axle cover
  9. dashboard (includes steering column) with window frame 
  10. three spoke steering wheel
  11. 4x wheel with rubber tries (removable)
  12. 2x brass axle
  13. spare wheel (no axle hole)
  14. clear styrene to cut windshield (if desired


REQUIRED TOOLS & SUPPLIES

1. Glue the cowl unit 1 (hood, firewall, grille, fenders) to the chassis 2. Make sure the cowl unit is oriented parallel to the front bumper.

The cowl unit slides into a recess in the chassis. Align the part carefully! You may want to use the left body panel 3 to check proper fit. 

ATTENTION!

You have three options regarding the lower section of the quarter panel (both sides):

1. Leave the panel as it is with the panel gap. This version is sometimes seen.

2. Fill the panel gap with putty to give the appearance of a one-piece quarter panel. This is the most commonly seen variant in civilan versions of the Land Rover.

3. Cut the small bottom section of the panel off and sand smooth. This version is often seen in military issue Land Rovers.
2. Glue left body panel 3 to chassis 2 and the cowl unit 1. There are two small slots in the bottom of body panel 3 that match two tabs on the chassis. Make sure the body panel 3 is true (90° angle) to the chassis 2.

IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU INSTALL  BODY PANEL 3 AND NOT BODY PANEL 6 AT THIS TIME!
3. Glue the front seat 4 in position. Make sure the seat is true (90° angle) to body panel 3.
4. Glue the left rear bench 5 to the chassis 2 and the body panel 3. Both rear benches are interchangeable.

5. Line up the right body panel 6 with the right front fender part of the cowl. Two small slots (larger than the ones on body panel 3) in the body panel 6 allow slight adjustments forward and backward. Glue the side panel 6 into place.




6. Glue the right rear bench 5 into place.




7. Glue the tailgate 8 into place.

8. Glue the two axle covers 9 on top of the axle guides.
9. Glue the dashboard/windowframe 10 against the firewall.


10. Prepare the vehicle for painting: use contour or modelling putty to fill the gaps along the front fenders.  Afew appicatiosn of putty, followed by careful filing and sanding (600 grit) will allow you to achieve a seamless appearance.


You can use the putty to perfectly shape the blinkers and taillights.

Beafore you paint the model, make sure it is 100% grease-free. You can wash the model quickly with dishsoap, pat it dry with a kitchen towel and let it air-dry. You can also rub it carefully down with a linfree cloth and denatured alcohol. The cleaner the surface, the better the primer will stick!

Primer is required. I recommend self-etching primer from the autoparts store. A very thin layer is enough! Primer smoothens out the surface, and it adheres better to the metal than does paint.

Please click the link in Step 11 to see how I prime and paint my models.

11. Paint the vehicle and the wheels.

PAINTING
Not shown -- you can figure it out! 12. Glue the steering 11 wheel into place. The steering wheel already has the proper center hole.
Not shown -- you can figure that out on your own also! 13. Glue one wheel 12 to each axle 13. Insert the axle through the slots in the chassis. Glue the other wheels to the other end of each axle. Paint the wheels and let dry. Mount the tires.
I think you can manage! 14. The spare wheel 14 can be glued to the hood or to the rear of the vehicle. The spare wheel 14 does not have an axle hole!
Are you done yet?  :-) 15. Optional: Cut a windshield from the supplied clear sheet 15. Glue it to the inside of the window frame. You can also use "clear parts cement" as  "window maker," for example Testor's.